![]() ![]() Andrew will guide you through setting up your camera and composition to capture the sequence of images, which we will do over a minimum of 2 hrs. We'll meet down in the dark skies of Lake Clifton to unlock a composition facing the south celestial pole (for perfect circle star trails) with minimal light pollution. Part 1 - On location at Lake Clifton Thrombolites, Saturday, 25 September 2021 7:00pm to ~9:30pm (finish time is approximate) This is a two part workshop covering both the practical side of capturing star trail / timelapse images and the processing of these files using dedicated software (see below for details of the software we will use). If you've already got a handle of the basics of astrophotography, join Sony Advocate Andrew J Clarke for this intermediate workshop designed to help you take your star images to the next level! Join a Canon Astrophotography workshop to learn more about Astrophotography.Star trails can make for some of the most stunning astro photography images. ![]() You’ll notice that focusing to either side of ‘totally in focus’ results in blurry or bokeh-looking stars. The other is to turn on your live-view, zoom in 10x using the magnify button, and manually focus the lens until the stars in the shot are at their smallest. One way is to point the camera at a bright star or the moon, and use the autofocus. Keeping the stars sharp is one of the hardest parts of Astrophotography. Repeated 250 times gives us 4,500 seconds, or 1 hour and 15 minutes for the single time-lapse sequence.įor the individual images, start by using the same image settings I mentioned earlier for Astrophotography and tweak as needed. Adding the three-second buffer gives us 18 seconds per photo. ![]() I recommend shooting at least 250 photos per sequence, which will result in 10 seconds of video footage at 25 frames per second.Īlways add a three second buffer between stills to make sure you don’t miss any shots in the sequence, which would result in little jumps in the footage. And because Astrophotography images are long-exposures, you end up with an extremely long sequence to shoot for Astrophotography time-lapses. You need lots of individual images to make up a time-lapse sequence. What camera settings do you use for Astrophotography time-lapses? For example on a 24mm lens, the ideal exposure time for sharp stars would be 500/24, approximately 21 seconds. Your focal length divided by 500 is-in theory-your maximum exposure time. The longer your focal length, the faster you will get small trails of light, instead of pin sharp stars. I usually set my white balance to fluorescent, and then do colour grading later in post processing. This should give you lots of stars in your shot. I use manual mode, an aperture of f/2.8-or wider if I can-around 20 seconds exposure, with ISO 6400. It depends on the conditions you’re shooting in. There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to Astrophotography settings. What camera settings do you use for Astrophotography? A shot at 16mm looks vastly different to one at 35mm. I like having different focal lengths to set up different views of the Milky Way at the same time. These lenses perform extremely well ‘wide open’-the biggest possible aperture opening, to let in the maximum amount of light. You're better off shooting two sequences at the same time.Ī range of fast lenses - I use the EF 16-35mm f2.8L III and EF 35mm f1.4L II. Sturdy tripods are a must and a remote shutter release like the TC-80N3 would be ideal.Ī DSLR (or two) for their long-lasting battery life. ![]() What gear do you use for Astrophotography? You can also add a human element to the frame, and by using a flashlight you can add some light painting elements.įor astrophotography time-lapses, you can use a remote shutter release or use the in-built intervalometer if available. I look for spectacular trees to use as silhouettes. To bring some additional interest to your image try adding some visual elements to your foreground. Use live view to zoom into the stars and manually focus to make sure your output is sharp. If your lens has image stabilisation turn that off before shooting. If you don’t have a remote, you can use a delayed shutter to minimise camera shake instead. You also need a sturdy tripod, a fast lens and a remote shutter release. cities-and make sure there’s no moon around. You need to remove yourself from areas with light pollution-i.e. So we asked Matthew Vandeputte to share some of his top tips.įirstly, make sure the sky above you is dark enough. On our Facebook page, we often get questions about how to do Astrophotography. When you add motion to the mix-in the form of time-lapse-the output is even more spellbinding. So it’s not surprising that Astrophotography-when done well-has the power to stop you in your tracks. The rapture of peering off into the universe is undeniable. ![]()
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